Next, work out what you want to grow in the bog. Sarracenia will form a clump in few years and will self seed it self.
Drosera will self seed the first year, and plants like D. filiformis, D. binata and VFTs will also form clumps over time.
So take time to work out what plants you would like to grow then add space for the growth and self seed of plants.
Remember to work out which plants like be wetter parts of the bog: for example, our three native Drosera "Sundews"
(D. anglica, D. intermedia and D. rotundifolia) prefer drier parts of the bog, and grow at different levels away from pools that form in a bogs.

    Try and place the bog away from trees that lose their leaves over winter, as these dead leaves can lead to the loss
of your plants due to mould and fungi which CPs are particularly susceptible to over the winter.
The rot of the leaves will also kill the winter buds of Pinguicula and Drosera and as the foliage rots nutrients
will be added to the soil, enriching it possibly beyond the tolerance level of some CPs.

    A water mister is handy in times went it has not rained for some time in order to keep the moss and smaller CPs from
suffering from the effects of low humidity. This can be avoided by using bog grasses like in the real bogs,
although I have found that taller grasses can hide some of the smaller CPs.
You will likely get heathers growing from the peat, so from time to time you will need to cut this away from your CPs.
It goes without saying that you should implement the same plant hygiene procedures in the bog as you do in your
greenhouse in order to prevent rot setting in.

   When you dig the hole for the bog make sure you dig to a sufficient depth to hold an adequate amount of water,
otherwise the sun will dry up your bog too quickly (see fig 2).
I use a pond liner to make the hole waterproof, so line the hole first with and old carpet,
cardboard or even sand to stop any sharp stones making a hole in the liner.
Remember, the water and soil in the bog will be heavy and any sharp objects under the liner will pierce it as it would for a pond!

    I also build a wooden rail around the bog to bring the level of the liner about 3 inches (7 cm)
above the level of the garden soil. This I do for two reasons: one is to stop the muddy rain water
washing into the bog, and the other is to put a layer of bark chippings around the bog which prevents snails and slugs from getting at your nice Insectivorous plants. This is not 100% effective, but it certainly helps. It can also stop the grass cuttings from going on to your bog!

    Once the hole is lined, fill it first with about 6 inches (15 cm) of perlite followed by
2 inches (5 cm) of Sphagnum moss peat which acts like a wick and pulls the water up from
the reservoir (perlite) base. The rest is a mix of Sphagnum moss peat, perlite and silver sand - a common mix ratio is 3:1:1.
One important point is when you make the bog you give a run-off area on one side for the rain
as not all your plants will appreciate being under water over winter and especially rainy times.

     I also find that if you make the surface of the bog have small hills and dips this give you more
planting area and also gives wetter and drier areas into which you can plant suitable Insectivorous plants.

    Remember you do not need to have big garden to have CP bog as you can also do something similar
with big pot or patio planter. Just ensure they are water tight and use the same soil mix as above.
[Some growers I know have drilled holes into the side of his containers about half an inch (1 cm) down from
the soil surface to ensure it doesn't become overly waterlogged, however some say this defies the
whole point of the bog garden!] I have done this on some of my pots as I have found that in the Winter the pots
would filled like a pool and the small Drosera winter bud would rot away.
Even in the wilds a bog has a area that acts like an over flow in wetter times, so plants are not under water for to long. I have also found that with a flooded pot in the winter time here in the UK it can freeze and this can damage small Sarracenia and winter buds of Droseras & Pinguiculas .

    These pots can look great and if you live somewhere with particularly cold winters then you can then just move these
big pots into a greenhouse or into the home for protection. I have a few of these pots with plants which
are typically found together in the wild. For example, I have one with Sarracenia flava, Sarracenia purpurea,
Dioneae muscipula (Venus Fly Trap) "VFT", Drosera rotundifolia and a Pinguicula which have all been found together in one bog.
This type of bog planting can be done in the greenhouse: for example Cephalotus, Drosera hamtonii and
Drosera pulchella all grow in the same bogs together and require greenhouse conditions in the UK.